25 January 2019, 18:17
(Dit bericht is het laatst bewerkt op 25 January 2019, 18:28 door Marc1970.)
BDP kan je ook zien aankomen door het bougiegat.
Je gatenwiel zit er goed op, dat zit vast aan de krukas, dus als de onderbreking 90 graden gepasseerd is, staat de zuiger in BDP. De nokkenas staat dan of met beide nokken omhoog (eind compressieslag) en beide naar beneden (eind uitlaat/begin inlaatslag).
Aangezien je vonk in beide BDP's hebt, maakt dit niet eens uit, beide BDP's zijn 'goed'.
Zo kan je, onafhankelijk van de riem of verdraaide poelies of wat ook, zien of de mechanische kant vd motor op tijd draait.
Een automaat is niet ideaal om een krukaspoelie los te halen nee. Steek iets door de gaten in de poelie en zet dat klem tegen het blok en het subframe.
Zoals:
Method 3: Jamming the Crank Pulley. [Alex] Buy a U-bolt (exhaust type) Using an Exhaust Clamp U-Bolt and Chain to Secure Crank Pulleyand insert it into one of the holes on the crank pulley. Attach a piece of chain on the u-bolt and then around engine crossmember, thence back to the u- bolt. Secure with two nuts. This avoids stressing the outer part of the pulley with the rubber damper .
Of:
Method 2: Rope Trick in Cylinder. [Recommended][Don Foster/Bruce Young] Use the Rope Trick with a length of cotton or nylon clothesline rope to jam the piston near Top Dead Center while you turn the crank pulley bolt. Be careful how you do this: you can damage the valves.
To loosen the bolt, first be absolutely certain you're at cylinder #1 TDC between the compression and power strokes. This way the valves will be closed in that cylinder. You can tell this by feeling compression pressure, using your finger, in the spark plug hole: air comes out the hole.
Verify #1 and #2 valves closed - look thru oil fill hole: #1 cam should be pointed inboard and up about 45°, with #2 pointed horizontally outboard.
Turn the crankshaft clockwise (facing the engine) about 1/4 to 1/3 turn after TDC. Stuff in about 2-3' of 1/4" soft rope into the spark plug hole. Leave 6 inches outside so you can pull it back out. Feeding the rope in thru a short length of heater hose makes the job even quicker.
Turn the crankshaft back -counterclockwise- to compress the rope until it won't move further. This jams the piston in place.
Using a socket, breaker bar, and -if needed- a pipe extension on the handle, loosen and remove the crankshaft bolt.
To tighten the bolt, use the same approach except move the crankshaft about 1/4 to 1/3 turn counter clockwise before #1 TDC. Stuff in the rope. Turn the crank clockwise to compress the rope and jam the piston. Tighten and torque the center bolt following the torque and turn procedure.
When tight to spec, back the crank up a little and remove the clothesline, then re-install the sparkplug.
Je gatenwiel zit er goed op, dat zit vast aan de krukas, dus als de onderbreking 90 graden gepasseerd is, staat de zuiger in BDP. De nokkenas staat dan of met beide nokken omhoog (eind compressieslag) en beide naar beneden (eind uitlaat/begin inlaatslag).
Aangezien je vonk in beide BDP's hebt, maakt dit niet eens uit, beide BDP's zijn 'goed'.
Zo kan je, onafhankelijk van de riem of verdraaide poelies of wat ook, zien of de mechanische kant vd motor op tijd draait.
Een automaat is niet ideaal om een krukaspoelie los te halen nee. Steek iets door de gaten in de poelie en zet dat klem tegen het blok en het subframe.
Zoals:
Method 3: Jamming the Crank Pulley. [Alex] Buy a U-bolt (exhaust type) Using an Exhaust Clamp U-Bolt and Chain to Secure Crank Pulleyand insert it into one of the holes on the crank pulley. Attach a piece of chain on the u-bolt and then around engine crossmember, thence back to the u- bolt. Secure with two nuts. This avoids stressing the outer part of the pulley with the rubber damper .
Of:
Method 2: Rope Trick in Cylinder. [Recommended][Don Foster/Bruce Young] Use the Rope Trick with a length of cotton or nylon clothesline rope to jam the piston near Top Dead Center while you turn the crank pulley bolt. Be careful how you do this: you can damage the valves.
To loosen the bolt, first be absolutely certain you're at cylinder #1 TDC between the compression and power strokes. This way the valves will be closed in that cylinder. You can tell this by feeling compression pressure, using your finger, in the spark plug hole: air comes out the hole.
Verify #1 and #2 valves closed - look thru oil fill hole: #1 cam should be pointed inboard and up about 45°, with #2 pointed horizontally outboard.
Turn the crankshaft clockwise (facing the engine) about 1/4 to 1/3 turn after TDC. Stuff in about 2-3' of 1/4" soft rope into the spark plug hole. Leave 6 inches outside so you can pull it back out. Feeding the rope in thru a short length of heater hose makes the job even quicker.
Turn the crankshaft back -counterclockwise- to compress the rope until it won't move further. This jams the piston in place.
Using a socket, breaker bar, and -if needed- a pipe extension on the handle, loosen and remove the crankshaft bolt.
To tighten the bolt, use the same approach except move the crankshaft about 1/4 to 1/3 turn counter clockwise before #1 TDC. Stuff in the rope. Turn the crank clockwise to compress the rope and jam the piston. Tighten and torque the center bolt following the torque and turn procedure.
When tight to spec, back the crank up a little and remove the clothesline, then re-install the sparkplug.
Volvo 940 1997 Volvo 144 1969